At 'The People's Runway' by KidSuper, Five Emerging Designers Think Big
Photography by Liuna Aylin
KidSuper’s Colm Dillane and Brooklyn Borough president Antonio Reynoso brought Brooklyn together during New York Fashion Week to present the SS27 collections of five emerging designers on the front steps of Borough Hall for the second annual The People’s Runway.
The runway show had a powerful opening via the Tender Armor collection by Kuai Li, founder and director of Quine Li, a brand that explores the geometric elements of the natural world and has been worn by Katy Perry, Kylie Jenner, Michelle Yeoh, and Doja Cat. The collection, which the brand describes as being “built around the transformation of a heart into a wing,” drew an audible reaction of awe from the crowd as models adorned in architectural silhouettes and voluminous wings emerged from Brooklyn’s City Hall.
Next to be featured were the designs of Laurel Fang, whose brand Laurel Blue combines oceanic themes with innovative technology such as 3D printing, laser cutting, and electronic mechanisms. Fang, a Parsons and NYU ITP graduate, utilizes her fashion and engineering training to create “wearable technology,” as seen by a 3D printed organza dress paired with an electric-powered headpiece that beautifully mimics the rhythmic movement of the sea.
Not all of Fang’s pieces are created using modern technology, however. “I still want to incorporate traditional craft,” said Fang backstage before the show, referring to a shimmering blue macramé dress and matching headpiece that served as the first look of her collection, The Forms of Water.
Through her collection, LEGACY, Moses Aina exuded exactly what her brand IGBO-SISUN states within its empowering purpose: “excellence, joy, and gravitas that the room cannot ignore1.” Aina’s runway pieces featured vibrant, sculptural gowns, embellished with striking details composed of sunflowers, beads, braiding hair, and wigs. When asked backstage if there is a particular piece from her collection that she is most proud of, Aina smiled radiantly and pointed to “The Empress” gown, a yellow taffeta gown with an 8-foot train, describing it as “the most stunning piece you’ve ever seen.”
Lamin “Rey” Jaiteh, founder and director of Rey Jaiteh, demonstrated his remarkable tailoring skills with a handcrafted collection titled iDEK. Blending business with streetwear, iDEK effectively incorporated pinstripes and peaked lapels with bubble hems, barrel sleeves, and drop waists. Jaiteh, who began sewing within the first few years of his life, has developed a brand that produces “high-end, handmade garments with an emphasis on tailoring, fit, and versatility.” This thoughtfully wearable collection is a gift to New Yorkers who crave intrigue and identity within time-honored style.
Roderick Reye’s Gettin’ Fly was the final collection of the emerging designers and certainly packed a punch with models donned in anti-theft security devices and discount signs, driving home its anti-consumerism message and serving as a warning about the downsides of attempting to keep up with ever-revolving trends. Garments reading “I Scam NY” and tags resembling those of a particular global fast-fashion giant were a nod to what Reyes calls “maliciously compliant corporations,” while the final look composed almost entirely of dollar bills called out the exploitation that comes along with the unsavory side of capitalism. The Fashion Institute of Technology graduate put his visual platform to use, critiquing a broken system while showing off his skills as a designer along the way.
Colm Dillane closed out the show with four looks of his own, the last of which was a tiered two-piece skirt set modeled wonderfully by his mother. The People’s Runway is an annual event that provides mentorship from industry professionals and grant money to emerging designers, giving them the resources to develop their craft and bring exciting innovation into the design world.
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