The Emerging Designers on Sara Stamford’s Radar

Before becoming a novelist, Sara Stamford spent years as an international model, developing an eye for the details, personalities and creative instincts that make fashion memorable. Now splitting her time between Paris and Los Angeles, she brings that same sense of observation to her writing, and back to the industry that first shaped it.

Following her fiction debut, The Honeycomb Diamond, Stamford returns this fall with her new psychological thriller, The Lost Souls. Ahead of its October 8 release, she shares her thoughts on emerging designers currently on her radar and why individuality still matters in fashion.

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Working in fashion—whether you're a model, photographer, or stylist—exposes you to so many different textures, patterns, and fabrics. You're always among the first to catch the vibe of what's coming next, trying on outfits that feel just right and materials that actually feel incredible on your body. I used to get so excited doing fittings right before Fashion Week. There's such a cool rush in being one of the very first people, besides the designer and the seamstresses, to see a new collection come to life before it hits the magazines, store shelves, and online shops.

Fashion today feels much simpler and less elaborate than it was ten or twenty years ago. People care a lot more about comfort now, and honestly, I don't think that's a bad thing at all—it's just different. The only downside is that a lot of major brands are starting to look identical. Half the time, if someone is wearing an expensive designer piece, I wouldn't even be able to tell you who made it. That's exactly why I love discovering new, emerging designers. They still have that real hunger and drive, a clear signature, and their own distinct way of expressing what they want—whether it's through unexpected silhouettes, an obsession with a single fabric, or just a refusal to follow whatever everyone else is doing that season.

Take Vaillant, for example—a smaller French brand founded by Alice Vaillant. She used to be a ballet dancer, then worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, and you can totally see both worlds combining in her clothes. You get these subtle, beautiful details, such as draped panels that move like fabric caught mid-turn or intricate lace construction throughout the dress.

Vaillant SS26 'Le Récital'

It's always fascinating to me when someone's background shows in their design work. When I go to the ballet or the opera, I notice that costume design is getting so much more contemporary lately—very pared-back, with muted tones, simple lines, and cuts that highlight muscle structure and body movement. I love that idea of finding beauty in simple things.

Another interesting brand I recently came across is Heliot Emil. It's Danish, with a super straightforward, industrial feel—monochrome colors, custom metal hardware, and sharp lines that look effortlessly cool.

Heliot Emil SS26 'EQUINE'

I love their precision tailoring paired with exaggerated proportions. I wear their hiking boots all the time, and it's great that they can be paired with a cool puffer jacket on the street and look super stylish.

My absolute newest obsession, though, is Burc Akyol. He was a finalist for the 2023 LVMH Prize. His bold, sculptural aesthetic with crisp tailoring feels fresh and modern, and quickly became a favorite among celebrity stylists and fashion editorials.

Burc Akyol "Coll 04" Fall

It's unisex, too—so if you and your boyfriend like sharing clothes, you can literally wear the same outfit. It's not overly baggy, and it balances a masculine edge with something soft and sensual. I see people walking down the streets of Paris in his pieces all the time, so it's no surprise he's blowing up globally.

Like most models, my day-to-day style is pretty minimalist and simple, but I still love color. Bright, bold colors—I'm never afraid to throw on a fire-engine red or a bright neon blue. Every now and then, I love to dress up in something super elegant and feminine, or take a sharp unisex look and throw on a tie or carry a cane just to play around. That's why fashion exists in the first place: to experiment, try out wild patterns, and just be whoever you want to be. And yeah, it's great to discover new talented designers and watch them expand and grow, putting out amazing new collections and bringing fresh energy to the industry while staying true to what made them unique in the first place.