Maximilian Davis Designs a Collection Celebrating Emancipation
Ferragamo’s latest Autumn-Winter 2024 collection celebrates the liberation and self-expression of the 1920s through a modern lens. The collection, which was showcased during the recent runway show at Milan Fashion Week, was designed by Maximilian Davis, who explored the visual codes of the era of emancipation and distilled them to their essence. The result is a collection that reflects the self-expression of the 1920s while incorporating modern elements.
Visual Codes of the 1920s Reflected in Ferragamo’s Autumn-Winter 2024 Collection
According to Davis, the 1920s used clothing as a form of celebrating freedom, and this expression of freedom resonated with him, his heritage, and the Ferragamo brand. The collection features raised hems, fluid fabrics, dropped waists, and relaxed cuts, all of which are the visual codes of the era. The collection also features lacquered organdie dresses, feminine transparencies, feathered finishes, and sequinned embroideries.
Feminine Transparencies, Feathered Finishes, and Sequinned Embroideries
The wardrobes of women who chose to dress in masculine silhouettes, such as Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo, are reflected in broad shoulders, heavy wools, and supple leathers. In tailoring, sharp, sculptural lapels connote a surrealist spirit, and their proportions are distorted, echoing rayograph portraiture. Blanket capes, a staple within the Ferragamo archive, are employed as forms of protection.
Masculine Silhouettes and Utilitarian Workwear Inspire the Collection
For protection, the uniforms of the period and the utilitarian workwear of fishermen inspired the collection, manifesting in a counterpoint to fluid drapery. The forms are softened by their fabrications, such as wool mixed with cashmere for luxurious ease and unlined leathers for a relaxed finesse. The collection also features utilitarian booties that are gently swollen and square-toed for a contemporary take on vintage silhouettes.
Footwear Emblems of the Era Incorporate Modern Elements
The collection’s footwear features emblems of the era, such as the sweetheart shape of a satin pump, an elegant T-bar atop a stiletto, and a strappy sandal drawn from the archive. According to Davis, he always strips things back and takes a rich part of history and restricts it to make it cleaner and more modern. In the spirit of androgyny, shoes also translate traditional brogue detailing and monk-strap buckles into cigarette-heel mules.
Ferragamo's Iconic Hug Bag and Fiamma in New Iterations
For men, the collection features formal rigour subtly subverted, such as a derby gently elongated for a slightly surreal impact, with its heel geometrically squared. Ferragamo’s iconic Hug bag is incorporated into the collection with seasonal iterations, such as feathered, grained, and rendered in the new Ferragamo monogram. In the ultimate expression of Ferragamo’s craftsmanship, 950 laminated leather sequins are hand-applied over 19 hours for a mermaid scale effect. The Fiamma also comes in a new size and shaded animation to reflect the collection.
Ferragamo’s latest Autumn-Winter 2024 collection celebrates the liberation and self-expression of the 1920s while incorporating modern elements. Davis has successfully distilled the visual codes of the era of emancipation to its essence, resulting in a collection that reflects the self-expression of the twenties on both sides of the century.