Old Souls, New Moves: Cult + Emerging Brands Rewrite the Rules for F/W 25–26

The Lucien Pagès Showroom on Park Avenue isn't just a showroom — it's a playground for anyone who speaks fluent fashion. Editors, stylists, insiders: we were all there, circling racks of Fall/Winter 25–26 collections, getting that familiar thrill of discovering what's next. But here's what stood out this season: while the rest of the industry races to reinvent itself, these cult and emerging brands are finding power in refinement. They're staying close to their roots — and still managing to push things forward.

AMBUSH FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Take AMBUSH, for starters. The cult Tokyo label, helmed by Yoon Ahn and Verbal, brought its signature street-meets-luxury DNA to the forefront once again, but with a twist. The collection, aptly titled Homecoming, mined its own archives to deliver a reworked, elevated homage to Shibuya style. We're talking sleek leather sets, croc-embossed jerseys, and plush sheepskin trims — pieces that feel like a love letter to AMBUSH's past but with all the attitude of modern-day Tokyo. Nostalgic? Yes. Predictable? Not even close.

Viktor & Rolf FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Viktor & Rolf, meanwhile, had us doing a double take. Known for its avant-garde couture spectacles, the Maison is making an unexpected — but welcome — return to ready-to-wear for the first time since 2015. And no, they haven't gone soft. Parachute denim with throwback '90s washes, cropped utilitarian jackets, and sharp khaki tailoring all carried their unmistakable DNA, just dialed into a daily wardrobe reality. The drama's still there; it's just a bit more wearable. And isn't that the sweet spot?

Courrèges FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Courrèges kept the momentum going with a collection that flirted between its space-age heritage and modern sensuality. Think asymmetrical cuts, mesh layers that skim the body just so, and feathered details that feel equal parts daring and delicate.

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Meanwhile, Brussels-based designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt delivered multi-functionality with style: oversized tailoring, extended necklines, and even a playful nod to the iconic Chanel bouclé jacket. (Because why not tip your hat to the classics while forging your own path?)

Left: Sacai x UGG FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Right: Sacai x Carhartt WIP FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Then came the collabs — and they did not disappoint. Sacai, always the master of remixing, previewed two knockouts: Sacai x UGG and Sacai x Carhartt WIP. The former gave cozy a high-fashion spin with towering, fold-down thigh-high boots lined in irresistible sheepskin. The latter? Elevated workwear at its finest, with oversized puffers and rugged jeans in rich, moody hues. Sacai makes everyday wear feel anything but ordinary, and these collabs are proof.

Left: Matières Fécales FW25, courtesy of the brand.

Right: Matières Fécales FW25, courtesy of WWD / PenskeMedia

But the moment that really had the room buzzing? Matières Fécales (formerly known as Fecal Matter) teaming up with Christian Louboutin. Known for their unapologetic, provocative style, the Montreal-based duo took their fearless aesthetic and ran with it — straight to the clouds. Literally, their curved leather platform boots soared to nearly 8 inches (at minimum), with a sculptural heel, yet unmistakably wearable (if you dare).

It's the kind of partnership that shouldn't work but absolutely does — two forces coming together without losing an ounce of their individuality.

Diotima FW25, courtesy of the brand.

And finally, there was Diotima — quietly, confidently stealing the spotlight. Rachel Scott continues to elevate her brand with the same precision and passion that's earned her CFDA and Woolmark Prize recognition. Her latest collection was a love letter to craft: beaded crochet knits shimmering like sunlight, buttery leather hoods, and scarves adding an unexpected edge. Diotima bridges her Jamaican roots with New York appeal, proving once again that handcraft and high fashion are not mutually exclusive — they're magic when done right.

As Fall/Winter 25–26 takes shape, one thing is clear: evolution doesn't always mean reinvention. These cult and emerging brands are doubling down on what makes them unique while smartly weaving in new energy and edge. They're not chasing trends — they're setting them. And frankly, we can't wait to wear it.